Crossing Tohoku, Japan by Public Transport: Exploring the Dragon Blue Underground Lakes of Ryusendo Cave in Iwate

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龍泉洞

On my Tohoku trip using only public transport, I headed to Ryusendo Cave in Iwate, Japan—home to stunning “Dragon Blue” underground lakes. Even as someone not fond of caves, I braved the adventure. ☺

Here’s my previous post: ↓

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What is Ryusendo Cave?

Ryusendo Cave is one of Japan’s Three Great Limestone Caves and is famous for its many underground lakes.
Both the cave itself and the bats that live inside are designated as National Natural Monuments of Japan.
https://www.iwate-ryusendo.jp/

They say you can see mysterious underground lakes with a stunning Dragon Blue color.
Hmm… I’m intrigued! Intrigued, but… also a little hesitant.

Confession: I’m not great with caves

Here’s the thing—I’m really not a cave person.
Dark places, tight spaces, loud noises, jump scares… I can’t handle any of them.
And caves? They’ve got the full nightmare combo: pitch-black darkness, narrow passages, bats that could fly at you anytime, and strange echoes from who-knows-where.I love traveling, I love adventure…
But every single time, I hesitate when a cave is on the itinerary.

“It’s dark… I don’t wanna go.”
But I do want to see it.
“There might be bugs in there.”
But it’s a famous spot, so I should probably check it out.
“This is gonna be scaryyyyyy…”

And so, my brain just keeps going back and forth.

Aren’t bats kinda scary? …
Is it just me?

In the end, I always tell myself:
I might never get the chance to come here again.
If I’m going all the way there, I might as well check it out.”
And so, even though I don’t like caves, I end up adding them to my route.

Ryusendo was no different. The photos looked absolutely stunning.
But deep down, I knew those beautiful shots were bright only because they were taken with long exposure settings on the camera. In reality… it’s pitch dark.

Yeah, I knew it was gonna be dark.
But riding the wave of excitement, I went ahead and bought the bus ticket anyway.

How to Get to Ryusendo Cave

The main ways to reach Ryusendo are by car or by bus.
Since we had stayed in Morioka the night before, the bus was our only option.

From Morioka Station, we took the Morioka–Iwaizumi–Ryusendo line (via Hayasaka Highlands) straight to the cave.
Fun fact: it takes about two hours from Morioka Station to Ryusendo by bus. 😂
And if you miss the 9:00 a.m. bus, the next one isn’t until after noon—around 12-something. 💦

Before you board, I strongly, strongly recommend using the restroom, and bringing along tea, candies, or light snacks for the ride!

Finally, Entering Ryusendo Cave

After a two-hour bus ride, we finally arrived at Ryusendo.
Right in front of us, along the Shimizu River, people were enjoying some mountain stream fishing.

龍泉洞渓流釣り

We made our way to the cave entrance☺
Even before stepping inside, a cool breeze greeted us—ahhh, so refreshing! ✨
A sign next to the entrance read: Inside temperature: 12.7°C (about 54.9°F).

Heart pounding, I step inside.
…Caves really aren’t my thing.

Is Ryusendo Cave Scary? Time to Find Out

龍泉洞

Whoa… it’s darker than I expected.
Since it was the Obon holiday, the place was pretty crowded—and honestly, just having people nearby gave me a strange sense of comfort.

Still, it was darker, narrower, and more claustrophobic than I had imagined… yeah, I was scared. 😂
I usually hate crowds, but on this day, I might have been truly grateful for them. (Who knew?)

The Underground Lakes Are Almost Too Beautiful

Making my way through the dark cave, I finally came across the underground lakes.
There’s the First Lake at 35 meters deep, the Second at 38 meters, and the Third plunging down to a staggering 98 meters.

The water is so crystal-clear it completely messes with your sense of depth.
It looks so shallow—“Is this really that deep?”—but then you focus and realize the bottom is way down there…
That contrast is both breathtaking and absolutely terrifying.

I even caught myself thinking, “If I dropped my phone here, I could probably see exactly where it lands…”
(Yeah… not my smartest thought. 😂)

The Underground Lakes
The Underground Lakes
第3地底湖
The Deepest: The Third Underground Lake

And just like that—after a fair share of scares (and a lot of nervous laughter)—I made it all the way through Ryusendo Cave!!!

You Can Also Visit the Ryusen Shindo Science Museum

Right next to Ryusendo Cave is the Ryusen Shindo Science Museum, which you can enter with the same ticket.
Naturally, I decided to take a peek… but honestly, this was my personal limit as someone with claustrophobia.

Inside, it was just as dark as Ryusendo—only with even fewer people around.
In the exhibit area, there were life-sized mannequins recreating the daily life of the Jomon people (Japan’s prehistoric era).
But in the dim light, having those figures suddenly appear in front of you… yep, instant horror-movie vibes.
Too creepy for me—I quietly turned around and left. 💦

That said, reviews say the exhibits are actually excellent.
If you’re not bothered by small, dark spaces, it might be worth checking out.

Back at Ryusendo, there are also dining options and coffee made with the cave’s famous spring water—perfect for gently warming up a body chilled in every sense of the word.

After enjoying Ryusendo, we endured another two-hour bus ride back to Morioka Station, ready to rest up for the next day’s adventures.

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